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FJR1300AS
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jimmy2bikes
Newbie


Joined: 06 Mar 2007
Posts: 13
Location: Catford London

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 18:56 pm    Post subject: FJR1300AS Reply with quote

It's a while since I have been on the forum, I'm sorry if this topic has already been covered but I was unable to find it.
I passed my test on a scooter two years ago, the 33 bhp restriction ends tomorrow, was wondering if my automatic license would allow me to ride the FJR1300AS? I have a right leg disability, the plan was to use the clutch lever and master cylinder from the manual version of this bike, fit it on the handlebar of the AS version and connect it to the rear brake master cylinder.
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dik
Hurricane


Joined: 22 Feb 2005
Posts: 3233
Location: SW Scotland

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 19:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes is the quick answer - as long as you are not doing a clutch you will be okay - ah hang on. that answer is more for cars, not bikes, sorry. but i wonder if its the same?

anyone help?
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Delboy
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Joined: 07 Sep 2005
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Location: Wylde Green, West Mids

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 20:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're right Dik, once the restriction is over then the world's your automatic lobster.
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jimmy2bikes
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Joined: 06 Mar 2007
Posts: 13
Location: Catford London

PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 19:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you very much for your replies, I've just got to work out how I get the <25KW removed from my license, the DSA and DVLA do not seem to explain this. I don't think you can beat a manual bike for it's control and stability, I would have preferred a manual bike and two years ago tried to modify a Varadero and a Deauville with neptune twin levers and take a test but was unable to get them to work, I am therefore stuck with scooters, I have a 650 Burgman but would like to get back to motorcycles which is why I am looking at the FJR1300AS, the one thing that bothers me about this bike is the poor stability when the clutch disengages at low speeds, it has been heavily criticised for it, the way around the problem is to drag the rear brake but this is not ideal, I was wondering if it would be possible to fit a torque convertor.
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dik
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Joined: 22 Feb 2005
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Location: SW Scotland

PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 05:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it is one hell of a bike for sure. i looked at it seriously once - seems like a fantastic machine, but you have already highlighted the slow speed concerns...you will just have to use it out of town! there are some other automatic bikes out there...

Aprilia 850 Mana/Gilera Ferro 850

Well, those two at least and the Honda DN-01 thing, if its a motorcycle!
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jimmy2bikes
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Joined: 06 Mar 2007
Posts: 13
Location: Catford London

PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 06:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dik, Thank you for your suggestions, I looked at the 850 Mana but preferred the FJR even though I have only ever seen the manual version never the AS, also I do not know anyone who owns one. Looking at the manual I bought for it, it looks like the clutch lever from the manual bike will not fit without removing the handlebar gear change switch. I am now thinking of forgetting it and looking at the possibilty of trying again to convert a manual bike, learning to ride it and take a test but at the ripe old age of 56 I am wondering if I have left it too late.
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Lofty
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Joined: 06 Jul 2008
Posts: 113
Location: Milton Keynes

PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 17:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the edition of the Road magazine from MAG carrying the roadtest of the FJR you mentioned. If you want to see it then pm an address and I will post it to you.
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jimmy2bikes
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Joined: 06 Mar 2007
Posts: 13
Location: Catford London

PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 14:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the offer Lofty, I have seen a lot of reviews about the FJR, the best and most comprehensive one I have read so far is someone replacing his Trophy.

http://atrophy.lock.net/do/fjr.php?

The problem of poor low speed stability because of the clutch disengaging is not going to go away, it seems the only way to overcome this is to drag the rear brake, riding the bike like a scooter,
I asked Yamaha if something could be done about it, i.e. fitting a torque converter but all they said was take one for a test ride.
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davsil
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Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 507
Location: Lichfield, Staffordshire

PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 17:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jimmy2bikes wrote:
take a test but at the ripe old age of 56 I am wondering if I have left it too late.


Can't really advise on the FJR but can assure you that at 56 you have not left it too late to do anything thumbs up l
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Badger
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Joined: 25 Dec 2004
Posts: 331
Location: West Sussex

PostPosted: Sat Dec 26, 2009 14:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried a Honda Dn01? I would like to know how they work on the road. Question
I can say that personally I have had to try many variations of thumb brakes and linked brakes. I think that I am90% there, but I am still seeking perfection. It is not easy. If I can give you any help, pm me.
Regards Smile
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jimmy2bikes
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Location: Catford London

PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 19:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Badger, sorry for the delay in replying, lots of problems at work.
I looked at the DN01 but finally bought the FJR, an incredible machine.
To relocate the rear brake to the left handle bar, I bought the complete clutch lever and clutch master cylinder meant for the manual version of this bike, have removed the hand operated gear change switch on the left handle bar to fit this. I am trying to refit the gear change switch which is not easy, the body of it will need to be modified to clamp the unit back onto the handle bar because the master cylinder clamp is now in the way, I was looking at the possibilty of finding one at a breaker or buying a new one to work this out. My only other problem then will be connecting the brake line from the 'clutch' master cylinder into the reservoir feed on the rear brake master cylinder, it looks like this feed is a push fit into the cylinder body but know one seems to know, the earlier master cylinders (which will not fit this bike) have a pear shaped plastic spigot with a screw fixing which can be replaced with a banjo bolt adaptor, the added problem here is that there is not a lot of room at this point, I would be grateful for any ideas.
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Badger
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Joined: 25 Dec 2004
Posts: 331
Location: West Sussex

PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 23:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your choice of bike sounds like alot of fun Very Happy
Tip Top for touring. My fave is Europe and the Balkans Very Happy
Have you any pics as I have a couple of master cylinders.
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jimmy2bikes
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Joined: 06 Mar 2007
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Location: Catford London

PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 19:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Badger, I have the master cylinder for the handle bar, the two problems I am trying to sort out are refitting the handlebar gear change switch, also connecting the hydraulic brake line into the rear brake master cylinder as there is no room to do this, I may have to remove the existing line and connect the new one direct to the manifold (this means the foot brake will be inoperative but does not matter as I can't use it anyway)
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nabsim
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Joined: 15 Jun 2005
Posts: 468
Location: Buxton, High Peak

PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 13:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jimmy2bikes wrote:
Badger, I have the master cylinder for the handle bar, the two problems I am trying to sort out are refitting the handlebar gear change switch, also connecting the hydraulic brake line into the rear brake master cylinder as there is no room to do this, I may have to remove the existing line and connect the new one direct to the manifold (this means the foot brake will be inoperative but does not matter as I can't use it anyway)


Whenever I used a left handlebar clutch master cyclinder assembly I just ran a new flexi pipe from the handlebar direct to the rear caliper and did away with the foot linkage, m/c and pipework all together.
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Terrortubby
Typhoon Tubby


Joined: 16 Mar 2005
Posts: 1672
Location: A PURPLE PLACE

PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 09:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nabsim wrote:
jimmy2bikes wrote:
Badger, I have the master cylinder for the handle bar, the two problems I am trying to sort out are refitting the handlebar gear change switch, also connecting the hydraulic brake line into the rear brake master cylinder as there is no room to do this, I may have to remove the existing line and connect the new one direct to the manifold (this means the foot brake will be inoperative but does not matter as I can't use it anyway)


Whenever I used a left handlebar clutch master cyclinder assembly I just ran a new flexi pipe from the handlebar direct to the rear caliper and did away with the foot linkage, m/c and pipework all together.


Probably the best way to do a thumb brake, saves on fittings and clears up any issues with space on or near the rear master cylinder.

However if you'd like to keep the rear brake pedal for any reason it can be done, it just takes a bit of thinking about. I kept the rear pedal on my GSXR so I could jam my foot on it while at lights or junctions on hills when I needed to give my wrists a bit of a shake and rub when stopped.

I also found the Brembo unit I used wasn't good enough to stop the wheel when the bike was moving at any speed but was good enough to settle the rear end when approaching bends and it was strong enough to lock a stationary wheel for the MOT brake test.

Used in tandem with front brakes most thumb brakes are safe to use.

They can be a complete and utter swine to bleed and set up but once done they do a decent enough job.

I used to brake on the front end only, but it was reassuring to know that I had a rear brake if I needed it. Wink
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